Unlocking Frozen Delights: The Ninja Swirl by Creami Transforms Home Soft Serve and Ice Cream Making

The original Ninja Creami gained immense popularity a few years back by borrowing technology from $5,000 commercial ice cream makers and synthesizing it into an affordable version priced under $200. Despite its excellence in producing sorbets, gelatos, and smoothie bowls, it lacked the capability to create soft serve. Enter the Swirl by Creami, which could very well be Ninja’s ultimate all-in-one home ice cream machine.

Rather than designing a completely new multipurpose unit, Ninja essentially added a soft serve component to the existing Creami. They also included a sizable handle for the tactile experience of pulling it down to serve your icy treat.

This approach might appear somewhat rudimentary from a design standpoint, but let’s be truthful—the Swirl isn’t winning any design awards. What matters more is its straightforward and efficient method. When not making soft serve, you can easily whip up a regular batch of ice cream using one of the two provided pint containers. However, achieving smooth and fluffy results introduces a bit more complexity.

While the Ninja Swirl commands a higher price and is bulkier than the classic Creami, being able to prepare soft serve along with nearly every other type of ice cream at home is a dream come to life.

Pros

  • Outstanding soft serve functionality
  • Revamped ice cream settings
  • Quieter operation
  • Tactile dispensing handle
Cons

  • Costlier than the original Creami
  • Larger and bulkier design
  • No deluxe-sized version available

$350 at Amazon

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$350 at Ninja

In addition to the usual paddle lid, the Swirl incorporates a unique top for soft serve preparation. The appliance utilizes a new pint container featuring a cleverly designed nozzle for dispensing. Ensure you keep the twist cap at the bottom closed for regular scooped treats but open for soft serve. Neglecting this can lead to issues, as a partly sealed container will not fit in the machine, forcing you to chip away at any stuck parts until properly fitted. Regrettably, if you’re aiming to prepare traditional ice cream, the original Creami pints are incompatible with this model (although, like its predecessor, the Swirl’s lids and containers are dishwasher safe).

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A potential challenge with the Swirl’s design, particularly for those living in smaller spaces, is that it weighs about double that of the original Creami. Measuring 15.1 x 10 x 17.5 inches and weighing 20 pounds, you’ll need to find a spacious spot to store it, as it won’t comfortably fit on your countertop.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

One of the standout features of the Swirl is its ability to create nearly all the treats the Creami does, plus a few extras. Alongside traditional ice cream, lite ice cream, gelato, sorbet, and milkshake options, it includes new settings for frozen yogurt, fruit whip, frozen custard, and something called Creamifits.

Most of these options are pretty self-explanatory, but some deserve more clarification. Fruit whips consist primarily of frozen fruits mixed with a bit of sugar, resulting in a healthier sorbet-like dessert (think of delightful pineapple Dole whips). Additionally, a dedicated frozen custard mode creates a richer and creamier treat compared to traditional ice cream (often achieved by using extra egg yolks), which is often hard to find outside of certain regions in the south and midwest. Lastly, Creamifit refers to high-protein concoctions that commonly incorporate whey, cottage cheese, or Greek yogurt, transforming workout shakes into frozen delights.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

When you’re ready to make a batch, Ninja simplifies the process by dividing the machine’s functionalities into two primary categories: one for standard scooped items and another for soft serve. The absence of a setting for smoothie bowls (available in older models) is noticeable, but the milkshake and Creamifit modes can serve as effective alternatives depending on the desired texture.

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Another enhancement over the previous Creami model includes the updated blending modes for the Swirl, ensuring ideal consistency without the need for a second spin. In my trials, I found Ninja has succeeded in this aspect. Previously, I often had to re-spin the ice cream to achieve the desired texture, but not with this new iteration. This applies to both soft serve and traditional scooped desserts. Moreover, the Swirl operates with less noise. It remains relatively loud at around 80 decibels from a distance of six feet, yet compared to the 82 decibels of its predecessor that often sent my three-year-old son fleeing from the kitchen, it’s a minor improvement. While you wouldn’t want to watch television in the same space, you can manage to converse comfortably.

For soft serve creation, you’ll need to use Ninja’s specialized soft serve lid (right) after spinning your ice cream base with the standard paddle lid (left) and place the pint into the left side opening of the machine. (Sam Rutherford for Engadget)

Should you master the more complex process associated with the Swirl, the outcomes are well worth it. This appliance truly can generate soft serve equal in quality to that purchased from your local ice cream shop or friendly neighborhood truck. In fact, you might find your homemade versions even superior since you control the ingredients. While following recipes is an option, the beauty of the Swirl lies in the ability to mix various items and craft delightful flavors as long as you adhere to some basic principles. That’s exactly what I did for my initial test batch.

As a parent, I strive to minimize food wastage. Rather than discarding overripe strawberries and pineapple pieces, I chopped them, drizzled lime juice over them, and added a third of a cup of sugar. After allowing the mixture to macerate briefly, I simply placed it in the Swirl’s pint container and froze it overnight. The following day, I set the machine to the fruit whip mode, let it spin, and then attached the soft serve lid before pulling down the handle. The result was astonishingly good.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

The texture of the fruit whip was exceptionally smooth, devoid of any large ice crystals, and the flavor burst like a tropical fruit bowl. The most rewarding aspect? I spent almost nothing on it, as the ingredients likely would have been discarded in many households.

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Next, I prepared a simple chocolate soft serve using this recipe from Ninja’s Test Kitchen, as it is my three-year-old’s favorite flavor. Instead of regular whole milk, heavy cream, and cocoa powder, I opted for Fairlife chocolate milk. This not only boosted the protein content but also provided lacto-free benefits. The end product was a luxuriously fluffy soft serve that tasted similar to marshmallows, and it was a hit with everyone in my family (including my lactose-intolerant wife). It was a classic done brilliantly.

Afterward, I experimented with another recipe by chopping up maraschino cherries (Luxardo is the recommended brand) and mixing those with some syrup, Fairlife milk, and coconut cream. The Swirl’s soft serve function effectively aerates the mixture during blending, achieving a light and smooth texture, and I added a quarter teaspoon of xanthan gum for extra stability. After blending, I lowered the lever, and voila: a decadent treat of cherries and cream that was rich without being overwhelming.

However, my most satisfying creation was a matcha soft serve that topped all others I’d ever tasted. With my wife being an avid matcha drinker, I’ve developed a refined palate in that area. I immediately discern when establishments like Starbucks use subpar matcha powder that tastes stale. By blending quality ceremonial matcha with lactose-free milk and cream with this recipe, I was able to craft a soft serve for her with unparalleled flavor and texture, something hard to come by as most ice cream shops lack substantial non-dairy selections.

Relative to the original Creami, the Ninja Swirl is substantially larger and a bit more complex to use. (Sam Rutherford for Engadget)

Creating homemade soft serve has always felt like the unattainable goal of ice cream lovers. While various machines for churned desserts have long been available, many require prohibitively costly equipment, especially since these tend to be singular-purpose appliances. Ninja’s Swirl changes that narrative, not only providing the ability to craft delightful desserts rivaling store-bought versions (often at a fraction of the cost), but it also accommodates virtually any frozen concoction imaginable—all within one device.

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Nevertheless, the Swirl does have some drawbacks. One issue is that creating soft serve results in approximately a quarter cup of ice cream remaining stuck in various components, including the space between the pint’s bottom and the nozzle. While it’s not a huge problem, it can be discouraging for those trying to minimize food waste by repurposing leftovers into desserts. Additionally, the Swirl’s larger size and a price tag of $350 makes it nearly double that of the standard Creami.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

My main concern is the absence of a deluxe model for the Swirl, which is available for its predecessor. A single pint of ice cream suffices for a small group, but larger gatherings will require making multiple batches as the Swirl holds only 16 ounces. With pint containers and lids costing $35 per pair, the additional expense can be a consideration for those hoping to entertain. Although Ninja has not confirmed if a bigger version is forthcoming, I would be surprised if we don’t see a deluxe model in the future. So if you find the Swirl appealing but desire one with more capacity, it might be worth waiting.

Lastly, some consumers might experience buyer’s remorse regarding the original model since the Swirl has come out only a short time after. However, I view the previous model as a surprisingly versatile, budget-friendly appliance that doesn’t occupy much kitchen space. While the Swirl expands the range of dessert options significantly, it also introduces a higher price and added complexity. But for all those nostalgic for the pleasure of enjoying a creamy frozen cone on a sweltering summer afternoon (preferably after a round of mini-golf), the Ninja Swirl delivers that enchantment to your kitchen like never before.