Title: Ninja Swirl: The All-in-One Ice Cream Extravaganza That Redefines Home Desserts

Several years back, the original Ninja Creami became a sensation as it consolidated the technology found in $5,000 commercial ice cream machines and reimagined it into a consumer-friendly appliance under $200. While the Creami excels at preparing sorbets, gelatos, and smoothie bowls, it was limited in its ability to create soft serve. Now, with the introduction of the Swirl by Creami, Ninja may have crafted the definitive all-in-one home ice cream maker.

Design and features

Instead of inventing an entirely new multifunction gadget, Ninja adapted the existing Creami and added a soft serve component. Additionally, it features a large lever, enabling users to experience the satisfying action of pulling it down to dispense their frozen creations.

This design may not appear sophisticated, but it’s practical and effective. When not in use for soft serve, you can still prepare regular ice cream using one of the two provided pint containers. However, achieving smooth, fluffy textures becomes slightly more intricate.

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The ultimate home ice cream machine

Ninja Swirl by CREAMi Ice Cream and Soft Serve Maker

While the Ninja Swirl is pricier and bulkier than the original Creami, the capacity to produce soft serve alongside virtually every other type of ice cream at home feels like a fantastic opportunity.

Pros

• Outstanding soft serve performance
• Enhanced ice cream modes
• Quieter operation
• Manual dispensing lever

Cons

• Higher price compared to the original Creami
• Larger and heavier design
• No upscale-sized model available

$350 at Amazon

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$350 at Ninja

Along with the standard paddle lid, the Swirl also comes with a specialized lid designed for soft serve preparation. The device employs a new pint container equipped with a clever yet somewhat tricky built-in nozzle for dispensing soft serve. You must remember to keep the twist cap at its base closed for traditional scooped desserts, but open it for soft serve. Forgetting this can cause issues, as an inadequately sealed container while freezing will lead to difficulties, preventing the pint from fitting in the machine. This means you might have to chip away at the frozen ice cream until it fits. Additionally, classic Creami pints are not compatible with the Swirl if you don’t intend to make soft serve, though both the Swirl’s lids and containers are dishwasher safe.

The sizing of the Swirl might be a challenge for those with limited kitchen space, as it is approximately twice the size and weight of the standard Creami. It measures 15.1 x 10 x 17.5 inches and weighs 20 pounds, meaning you’ll need to find a suitable spot for it unless your kitchen is quite large since it won’t fit comfortably on your countertop.

Modes: The world is your ice cream

One of the most impressive aspects of the Swirl is its ability to replicate everything the Creami can, along with additional functions. In addition to making regular ice cream, lite ice cream, gelato, sorbet, and milkshakes, it features new settings for frozen yogurt, fruit whip, frozen custard, and what are being called Creamifits.

Most of these options are intuitive, but a few require clarification. Fruit whips are primarily made of frozen fruit blended with sugar, creating a healthier version of sorbet (think of those tasty pineapple Dole whips). The inclusion of a dedicated frozen custard mode is also appreciated, as it’s richer and creamier than standard ice cream due to extra egg yolks. Given its rarity outside of the southern and midwestern U.S., this is a fantastic offering. Lastly, Creamifit refers to protein-rich creations often using ingredients like whey, cottage cheese, or Greek yogurt, effectively transforming workout shakes into delicious frozen desserts.

When you want to make a batch, Ninja simplifies the process by categorizing the machine’s functions into two primary groups: one for traditional scooped desserts and another for soft serve. Notably absent is the setting for smoothie bowls, which was featured in earlier models. However, this isn’t a significant issue, as the milkshake or Creamifit settings work effectively as alternatives based on the texture you desire.

Another upgrade from the original Creami is the refined blending modes in the Swirl, providing the desired consistency without requiring a second spin. Through my testing, I found that Ninja successfully addressed this issue. Previously, I often needed to put ice cream back in for another go before achieving satisfaction, but that wasn’t necessary with the new model. This applies to both soft serve and traditional scooped desserts. Additionally, the Swirl operates more quietly. While still noisy at approximately 80 decibels from six feet away, it is slightly quieter than its predecessor, which measured around 82db, causing my toddler to often flee the kitchen. This is a welcome improvement, allowing for conversations while the machine runs, even if TV watching in the same room might still be a stretch.

Soft serve: Tasting is believing

If you’re ready to navigate the Swirl’s slightly more complex process, the results are rewarding. This machine delivers soft serve comparable to that of local shops or ice cream trucks, and in some cases, perhaps even better due to the ability to control ingredients. While following recipes is certainly an option, similar to its predecessor, the brilliance of the Swirl lies in its versatility; as long as you adhere to basic principles, you can throw together a delicious concoction at whim. For my initial test, I aimed to minimize food waste.

Like many parents, I try to reduce waste as much as possible. Instead of throwing away preserved strawberries and pineapple chunks at week’s end, I chopped them up, added a splash of lime juice, and mixed them with a third of a cup of sugar. After allowing the fruit to macerate, I placed it in the Swirl’s pint container and froze it overnight. The following day, I activated the fruit whip setting, blended it up, and then switched to Ninja’s soft serve lid before pulling the handle. The result? Absolutely delightful.

The texture of the fruit whip was exceptionally smooth without any noticeable ice crystals, presenting a flavor reminiscent of a tropical fruit explosion. Best of all, it was incredibly economical to make, as the ingredients were on the brink of being wasted.

Next, I decided to create a simple chocolate soft serve (following this recipe from Ninja’s Test Kitchen), given that it’s my three-year-old’s favorite flavor. Rather than the usual whole milk, heavy cream, and cocoa powder, I opted for Fairlife chocolate milk. Not only did this enhance the protein content, but it was also lactose-free. As a result, I produced an incredibly fluffy soft serve with a mouthfeel reminiscent of marshmallows, delighting my whole family (including my lactose-intolerant spouse). It was a nostalgic favorite done exceptionally well.

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Soft serve ice cream made using the Ninja Swirl

A strawberry, pineapple and lime fruit whip made using the Ninja Swirl.

Following that, I attempted another spontaneous recipe by chopping up maraschino cherries (Luxardo preferred) and mixing them with their syrup, Fairlife milk, and coconut cream. The Swirl’s soft serve setting efficiently integrates a significant amount of air into the ice cream mixture, promoting a light, velvety texture. To ensure smooth consistency, I added a quarter teaspoon of xanthan gum to the mix. After blending and using the dispenser, I was rewarded with an indulgent yet not overly heavy cherries and cream dessert.

Perhaps my most satisfying achievement was a matcha soft serve that turned out to be the best I’ve ever tasted. With my wife being a daily matcha drinker, I’ve developed a discerning palate. I can easily identify when establishments like Starbucks use low-quality powder reminiscent of dried grass. By pairing some fine ceremonial matcha with lactose-free milk and cream using this recipe, I managed to create a soft serve for her that had unmatched taste and texture—a rarity since most ice cream parlors don’t offer many non-dairy alternatives.

Wrap-up

Homemade soft serve often seems like the ultimate challenge for ice cream makers. While various machines for churned desserts have existed for years, dedicated soft serve devices tend to be pricey and limited in function. Ninja has revolutionized this with the Swirl. Not only does it produce delectable creations that can compete with store-bought options (and at a lower cost), but it can also prepare virtually any type of frozen treat, all within one appliance.

That being said, the Swirl does have a few downsides. First, the soft serve process can leave about a quarter cup of ice cream stuck in various components, like gaps between the pint’s base and nozzle. While this isn’t a major issue, it could be problematic if you’re trying to minimize waste by creating desserts from leftovers. The Swirl is also hefty, and at $350, it’s almost double the cost of the original Creami.

My primary complaint is the lack of a larger model compared to the original Creami. A single pint is sufficient for a couple of servings, but for hosting a gathering, the Swirl’s 16-ounce capacity means you’ll need to prepare additional batches. And since the Swirl’s pints and lids retail at $35 per set, it adds up if you’re planning to serve larger groups. Ninja did not provide any comments regarding the possibility of a larger model, but it seems reasonable to expect a deluxe version eventually. Thus, if you appreciate the Swirl’s capabilities but desire more volume, it might be wise to wait for now.

Lastly, with the Swirl debuting shortly after the original Creami, some customers may experience buyer’s remorse. I personally see the original model as a solid, versatile choice that remains affordable and doesn’t require much kitchen space. Though the Swirl expands its repertoire significantly by introducing a key dessert category, it comes with a greater price tag and added complexity. But for those with cherished memories of savoring silky soft serve cones on warm summer days (especially after a round of mini golf), the Ninja Swirl brings that joy directly into your kitchen in an impressive way.