Savoring Success: Tarla Delivers a Sweet Yet Shallow Slice of Indias Culinary Icon

No matter your culinary interests, you’ve likely heard the name Tarla Dalal; this celebrated chef was a prominent figure in Indian kitchens for many years. Dalal penned more than 100 cookbooks in various languages, appeared on popular cooking shows, held cooking workshops, and garnered a massive online following in her later life. Actress Huma Qureshi embodies the iconic vegetarian chef in the biopic Tarla.

This film centers on Dalal’s early days as she transitions from an ordinary housewife to a recognized name, focusing less on her later achievements following her widely-successful cooking show. Notably, the biopic begins in a classroom, presenting a young Tarla Dalal filled with determination to make something of her life, albeit uncertain of the exact path – laying the groundwork for her extraordinary narrative. Here’s my non-spoiler review of the biopic.

Huma Qureshi delivers an impressive performance as the Gujarati chef

Monica, O My Darling) seamlessly steps into Dalal’s character, imitating not only her Gujarati accent and appearance but also her mannerisms. She begins as an ordinary homemaker, caught up in the endless tasks of a middle-class home. Qureshi skillfully balances Dalal’s lively confidence with the apprehension of a woman ready to confront the entrenched patriarchal norms of Indian society.

Her rendition also infuses humor, particularly regarding her discomfort with her husband’s taste for non-vegetarian cuisine. Qureshi deftly unwraps the emotional dimensions of her character as the film unfolds.

The first half lacks zest (pun intended)

Much of the film feels like a family-friendly tale for children, where everything aligns perfectly for the Dalal family. The narrative sometimes appears overly sweet, with only a few obstacles scattered throughout. Even the antagonists with their patriarchal lines lack a sense of real menace.

It could be said that the first half presents a simplified account of Dalal’s life with a formulaic storyline. It is in the second half that the film shifts to a more authentic tone – akin to the shattering of a whimsical ideal, leading to a mix of human emotions.

A standard patriarchal narrative

As previously noted, the film doesn’t shy away from incorporating typical patriarchal discourse. Cooking is often portrayed as an unspoken obligation for women, while Indian men with fragile egos display discomfort at the notion of a woman achieving success. The film is filled with clichés that echo the standard dialogue found in Bollywood dramas.

That said, I was particularly impressed by the nuanced depiction of ingrained patriarchal attitudes in women, embodied in the character of Dalal’s unsupportive mother, effectively portrayed by Morli Patel. Although Patel has limited screen time, her performance delivers a powerful message.

Speaking of the film’s patriarchal themes, Tarla’s husband Nalin Dalal, portrayed by Sharib Hashmi (Family Man), offers a refreshing counterpoint. His character supports and encourages his wife wholeheartedly, breaking free from the mold of the stereotypical Indian male role.

A tantalizing dose of nostalgia

The aspect I appreciated most about this film was its nostalgic evocation of the past, successfully transporting viewers to a typical middle-class household in the 1960s. Significant care has been taken with the props and set design, from little decorative items and fabrics to everyday objects, fashion trends, and even the cars and music of the era. The art department deserves kudos for their work in Tarla.

I found myself smiling at the sight of the classic Reynold’s ballpoint pen with its white body and blue cap, the dog-shaped Calcium Sandoz bottles, and the almost ceremonial crepe paper decorations typical of children’s birthday parties at that time.

Conclusion

Overall, the film makes a genuine attempt to portray the journey of the late Padma Shri awardee but somewhat lacks the compelling elements of an authentic biographical narrative. It covers a relatively brief span of her career and doesn’t fully capture the extent of Tarla Dalal’s celebrity status.

Including more glimpses of her significant achievements could have strengthened the film’s impact, rather than having them presented merely as text before the credits roll. If you’re unfamiliar with Tarla Dalal, you might find it challenging to grasp the essence of her iconic story even after viewing this film.

I was also slightly let down by the omission of Dalal’s celebrated culinary innovations with international cuisines, where she infused them with Indian flair. In terms of cinematography, while the film showcases some enticing food shots, the food lover in me yearned for more delectable treats to be displayed on screen. All things considered, Tarla serves as a visual feast brimming with nostalgia, likely prompting viewers to search for Tarla Dalal’s recipes.


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